High Altitude Medicine & Biology , the best perk of working at a university hospital , is running a short period of free online access right now. This is a gold mine for everyone who is interested in hard data based articles on high altitude physiology and medicine :
* Horrendous fail rates on Kilimanjaro , way outside all guidelines in Prevalence of Acute Mountain Sickness among Finnish Trekkers on Mount Kilimanjaro, Tanzania
* Report from the first run on the Beijing-Lhasa railway ( first train in world with onboard oxygen generators ) , and how effective this is in preventing altitude sickness
* The article the Finns , and everyone on fast , fixed itineraries should have read first : Altitude Preexposure Recommendations for Inducing Acclimatization
On top of this is there is a lot of medical history , with still highly relevant results. There is a whole issue dedicated to the 50 year anniversary of the Silver Hut expedition , still a benchmark in the effects of extreme acclimatization : five months spent at 5800 meters , followed by bringing down more physiological data from up to 7400 meters. Those who still believe that it’s essential to push large volumes of fluids will struggle with the fact that that Milledge and the other members managed well on around three liters of fluids per day , including climbing up to 7000+ meters.
One of the results of going thru this issue that I’ve just dived in to the man and explanation of why the Hillary/Tenzing ascent succeeded , after seven British fails in a row : Griffith Pugh , the picture perfect mad scientist and genius that that pushed a kicking and screaming climbing fraternity in to a physiological approach to climbing : using oxygen , planning nutrition, designing tents and more.